At the southernmost tip of the mysterious Island of Salvora, perched atop Punta Besugueiros like an eternal watchman, stands the lighthouse. Its peculiar silhouette, with a distinctive U-shape and an octagonal tower that defies the onslaught of the Atlantic, not only serves as a guide for navigators but also harbors within its walls echoes of tragedies and unforgettable acts of bravery. This lighthouse, whose construction was completed in 1921, came to replace an earlier structure, erected in the mid-19th century, whose oil and then petroleum light proved insufficient for the dangerous waters surrounding the island.
The construction of the current lighthouse was not merely a modernization but a direct response to one of the darkest episodes in Galician maritime history: the shipwreck of the steamship Santa Isabel. In the frigid dawn of January 2, 1921, amidst an implacable storm, this ship, carrying numerous emigrants to America, met its fatal destiny on the rocky shoals near Salvora. The distress signal, barely a fragment before the electrical silence, foreshadowed a tragedy that claimed over two hundred lives.
It was on that night of chaos and despair that the Salvora Lighthouse became a witness to an unexpected act of heroism. With most of the island’s men away, celebrating New Year’s Eve on the mainland, it was the women of Salvora who, alerted by the old lighthouse’s light and the urgency of the moment, launched themselves into the rough sea in their small “dornas”. Cipriana Orujo, Josefa Parada, María Fernández, and Cipriana Crujeiras braved the darkness and the fury of the storm to rescue about fifteen shipwrecked individuals, demonstrating a courage that would be etched in the island’s memory.
Visiting the Salvora Lighthouse today offers a unique perspective of this place steeped in history. Although the interior of the modern lighthouse has not been regularly open to the public since its automation in 2017, the route leading to it, the “Ruta do Faro,” allows you to explore its imposing exterior structure and contemplate the panoramic views of Salvora’s rugged coastline. From this strategic point, you can feel the force of the Atlantic wind and the bravery of a sea that has been both a source of life and a stage for tragedies.
The base of the lighthouse and its surroundings invite reflection on the fragility of navigation and the importance of these stone sentinels. Imagining the work of the lighthouse keepers who for decades kept its light alive, first with rudimentary systems and then with more advanced technologies, adds a human dimension to this monument. Even the remains of the old lighthouse, with its steps reused in the nearby Pazo, serve as a tangible reminder of the evolution of maritime signaling in this remote enclave.
Exploring the surroundings of the Salvora Lighthouse also means venturing into a landscape of rugged and singular beauty. The granite rocks sculpted by wind and saltpeter, the whimsical “bolos,” extend to the cliff, offering natural viewpoints towards the ocean. On clear days, the view reaches the Cíes Islands on the horizon, reminding us of Salvora’s belonging to this valuable National Park.
The “Ruta do Faro,” a trail of approximately 1.2 kilometers, is accessible on a self-guided basis following the interpretive panels that dot the path. These panels not only provide information about the local flora and fauna but also narrate the history of the lighthouse and the tragic events that marked its existence. Reaching the point where the lighthouse stands is to feel the connection between human history, the force of nature, and the legends that still resonate in the wind of Salvora.
Ultimately, exploring the Salvora Lighthouse is an essential experience for anyone visiting this Galician island. It is not just about admiring an emblematic construction but about connecting with a place where heroism intertwines with tragedy, where light has guided navigators in the darkness, and where the landscape speaks of the indomitable force of the Atlantic. It is a lighthouse with a soul, a sentinel of forgotten stories waiting to be discovered.
