You don’t need much imagination to see something more than just a rock in Hvítserkur. On the eastern shore of the Vatnsnes Peninsula stands a 15‑meter‑tall basalt formation, arched and haunting, like a creature caught in mid‑motion. With two “legs” straddling the sea, it resembles a dragon, a rhino, or a sea monster stooping to drink. And according to Icelandic folklore, it once was.
The name Hvítserkur means “white shirt,” referring to the pale streaks of bird droppings that cover its surface. While not the most romantic origin, it speaks to the wild nature of this place, where seabirds like gulls and fulmars nest and wheel constantly around the rock, adding movement to its stillness.
Hvítserkur is the eroded remnant of a long‑dead volcano, sculpted by centuries of wind and waves. Its base has been reinforced with concrete to prevent collapse, preserving its haunting silhouette for future generations. The best times to view it are during sunrise or sunset, when Iceland’s light turns the seascape into something surreal and silent.
Legend has it that Hvítserkur was once a troll who despised the sound of church bells ringing from the Þingeyrar monastery across the fjord. Attempting to destroy the church, he ventured out at night, but was caught by the dawn and turned to stone—as all trolls are said to do when touched by sunlight.
Nearby, visitors can find one of Iceland’s prime seal‑watching locations. The black beaches of Vatnsnes offer views of wild seals lounging on rocks or swimming near the shore. Coastal walking paths and observation points provide striking views of Hvítserkur from multiple angles, and campsites in the area offer a place to sleep beneath Arctic skies.
Hvítserkur may not be part of Iceland’s famous Golden Circle, nor close to Reykjavik—but those who venture northward, off the beaten path, discover here a lonely marvel that seems to breathe, though it’s made of stone. A fossil of mythology, geology, and northern quiet.
