In the heart of the Atacama Desert, where the color palette unfolds in ochre, red, and purple hues beneath an almost unreal blue sky, an irresistible magnet draws adventurous spirits: Cerro Toco. This volcanic silhouette, imposing with its 5604 meters of altitude, stands as a sleeping giant near the oasis of San Pedro de Atacama, the gateway to the high Andean wonders of the region. Despite its considerable height, Toco presents itself as one of the most accessible peaks to experience high mountain terrain in a single day, a challenge that seduces both novices and experienced mountaineers alike, offering in return breathtaking panoramas and a unique perspective where the majesty of the Andes intertwines with the forefront of astronomical science, thanks to the observatories dotting its slopes.
Although dormant today, Cerro Toco, a stratovolcano that is part of the Púrico complex, bears on its flanks the scars of an igneous past, such as the remnants of an old sulfur mine at its base, a testament to the mineral wealth that attracted human presence to these heights. Its name, “tocko” in the Kunza language, meaning “corner,” deeply links it to the heritage of the Lickanantay people, the ancestral inhabitants of Atacama, whose lives were intrinsically tied to these sacred peaks.
In the world of Andean mountaineering, Cerro Toco has earned a special place as a crucial acclimatization stepping stone. Its relative technical simplicity, contrasted with its significant altitude, makes it the ideal testing ground for those aspiring to more demanding peaks like the Licancabur volcano. The standard ascent route, although the initial query mentioned the north face, surprisingly begins high up, near 5200 meters, in the vicinity of the advanced astronomical observatories ACT and Simons. The 4×4 journey from San Pedro is a progressive immersion into a lunar landscape, culminating in the almost extraterrestrial vision of the scientific domes.
The hike, about 1.7 km to the summit, demands a slow and steady pace in the rarefied air. The trail winds through volcanic scree, ascending about 400 meters that feel much more due to the altitude. Reaching the summit is a visual reward like no other: a horizon where the Licancabur and Juriques volcanoes mark the border with Bolivia, where the high Andean lagoons are visible, and where, to the south, the Chajnantor plateau unfolds, home to the ALMA astronomical complex, whose antennas appear as tiny technological marvels from this privileged vantage point.
However, the apparent ease of access carries a crucial responsibility: acclimatization. Attempting the ascent without the proper process can trigger the dreaded altitude sickness or “puna.” Spending at least two or three nights in San Pedro and taking excursions to intermediate altitudes is essential to prepare the body. The mountain, although accessible, demands respect and rewards those who approach it with adequate preparation, offering an unforgettable experience in the heart of one of the most fascinating deserts on the planet.
